Bloodline

After witnessing a morning session on The Morgue (I wouldn't dare attempt a roof crack even if I knew how to hand jam. Watching two people thrust their limbs into this problem is easily one of the most impressive feats I've seen in Hueco) and a handful of third-day-on attempts on Theater of the Absurd, we raced to a hidden chasm near the summit of North Mountain.

Arriving at Bloodline shortly before 4PM left us with minimal time to work the vertical tufa before we had to turn back around and hurry to Pond Parking. Max did the problem two seasons ago when it was a new addition to the long list of North Mountain classics so he found a spot high above us to take pictures.

About a week ago I decided that I wanted to climb this problem and as we made our way across the moonscape the excitement was building. My whole body was shaking as I laced up my shoes and plunged my hands into the chalk pot. I asked Nate if he would try it before me because I was so nervous.

It was after 5 o'clock when my fingers finally tickled the bottom of the tufa and I managed to control the barn door swing. Taking the bloodline to the top and grabbing the glorious horned jugs was the perfect end to the day.

Here is a quick video capture of the actual send. I didn't even know Max recorded this until we were back at the car!

Bloodline, Hueco Tanks, TX from BLOCHEAD on Vimeo.

Harper's Bazaar Korea

Jain Kim looking stunning in Harper's Bazaar Korea.

Wouldn't have found this image if I hadn't read Nina Williams' blog. I think this might be the best a climbing gym has ever looked.

North Mountain Projects

We have reached our rough half way point here in Hueco and I finally did a rock climb! I managed to finish Stegasaur in about an hour. My crux being the first two moves. I thought it felt about V7 with the feet first beta but this is totally subjective considering my size and ability. It may be a lowball but I had fun spinning around on various heel hooks and there was no finger pain, which is the best news.

Yesterday I tried Choir Boys Light and it was everything I expected it to be; difficult. Slopers and under clings are hard for me! As I narrow down my North Mountain list I've found that the problem I want to try the most is Bloodline.

Photo from Mountain Project.

It has been two years since I've seen the problem in person and I really want to try it but first I have to find it again.

That Hi-Pro Glow

Heel hook for shorties.

Compression.

All photos by BLOCHEAD.

Even though I haven't been climbing long enough to have a style I've generally felt that powerful compression moves have been the hardest for me. Getting over this finger tweak, however, has forced me to seek out slopers and jugs on problems I wouldn't usually be attracted to. This is how I came to try That Hi-Pro Glow, one of the most classic V6's on the Spur.

And I'm so happy that I did! This problem is very enjoyable to work. I even surprised myself by doing all the moves (save for the top out) during my first session. After a month I have finally found something that I want to finish. Next on the list is Belly of the Beast, V7.

Random Acts of Kindness

Over the course of this road trip we have run into a lot of different people. Some wouldn't wave to us as we passed them driving up Buttermilk Road and some welcomed us into their homes for warm showers and home cooked meals (thank you so much A and D).

A few nights ago Max and I found that a package addressed to us had arrived at the Rock Ranch. We were confused; we hadn't ordered anything online and at that time we hadn't given the address to either of our families. The package had come from the East Coast and was from a couple we met in Hueco in December.

A sampling of items included in the care package surprise.

We discovered goodie after goodie as we unwrapped the items in the box. From rest day crafts to hot chocolate and, my personal favorite, pumpkin butter. This package is on par with the delicious Thai dinner we shared with friends in Flagstaff.

Thank you so much, Narissa and Dustin, for putting the care and thought into this box. Not only did you make our week you have also restored my faith in fellow climbers. People like you inspire others to pass along the kindness. I can't wait to cook some dinner!

First of the Year, Best of the Grade

Hot embers the morning after.

After surviving the dangerously huge fire and thumping music on New Years Eve, we continued our tradition of climbing outside on January 1st with a tour in the back country. There were sends all around and we even saw a small group of Aoudad Sheep on East.

Slim Pickins, V5.

Photos by BLOCHEAD.

Finally, proof that I have been climbing in Hueco. I have wanted to try Slim Pickins since we arrived three weeks ago and it is ridiculously difficult - I have a blood blister on my fingertip to prove this. Must return for the send one of these days. In other finger related news, my mysteriously injured finger feels better every day and, to put it simply, I am psyched.

Moonshine Roof was my first send of the year. It is without a doubt the best of the grade that I have ever climbed. It is unmatched in unique appearance, movement, comfort and satisfaction. I know I'm not the first person to spray about this problem, but I don't believe that any amount of build up could possibly ruin this problem for anyone.

Happy New Year!